The moment we stepped off the ship this morning
we were blown away…literally. Apparently because Lanzarote (lan zah wrote eee)
is so flat the wind blows here fast and furious.
The island of Lanzarote is among the newest of
the Canary islands. Created by volcanic actions millions of years ago. The
island is covered with volcanos. And
many of them have erupted and caused a lot of damage. One fourth of the island
is covered in lava fields and are considered part of their national park.
Our tour guide today was Eva. A born and raised
Lanzarotan. She loves her island and all
that natural (and traumatic) beauty that exists here.
We drove over one of the biggest lava fields I
have ever seen to get to Timanfaya National Park - or the Fire Mountains. They
call it that for obvious reasons, but as we discovered later those mountains of
fire are still alive and kicking.
We reached the visitor center that was designed
by Cesar Manrique. He's a local architect who used the natural landscape in his
work. Everything we saw of his this trip was built into a cliff, or built into
the lava fields to display the natural beauty and to enjoy it at the same time.
Anyhow, at the visitor center Cesar had designed
it for visitors to witness the fury of the volcano. Each station displayed the
one of the 4 elements: land, water, air, and fire The first station we all
stood in a wide circle that had been drawn on the grown. A worker then shoveled up from the ground in
the middle of the circle some volcanic rocks. He handed each of us a handful
and I'll be darn if those rocks were smokin hot. It was then I thought,
"I'm standing on an active volcano!!"
The next station was about fire. There was a hole
in the ground about 10 feet wide and as deep as anything. Off to the side of
the hole was another hole. The worker grabbed a pitch fork and a tumble weed
and put the tumble weed into the second hole. Within seconds that tumbleweed
was on fire.
The third station was about water. There were
these long tubes made of metal put into the ground. The work would walk over to
one and put a bucket of water into the tube and within minutes the water would
burst out as steam.
The last station was air. Cesar built a "chimney" if you will
over this massive hole. It looked a lot like a fire pit…and on top was a grate
covered in potatoes. The hole that was
below was so deep…you couldn't even see the bottom. Our tour guide said the
temp coming out of the hole was about 400F…thus cooking of the potatoes.
It was insane to see the activities at the
visitor center. It really brought to live the fact that the earth is still very
much alive and at any moment one or many of those volcanoes could explode.
We left the visitor center in the bus and they
put on a crazy recording that had funky music and the story of the first
eruption. Apparently in the 17th century
is when the most aggressive eruption happened. A priest in the only village
that wasn't covered in lava (they lost 4 villages during the 6 year eruption)
had kept a diary so the story was told from his perspective.
Anyhow, the bus drove this narrow road through
the lava fields, the ash fields, more lava fields and all the while a story was
being told. I got to see bizarre
craters, streams of lava, and fields of ash that were mixed together to make a
nearly unrealistic lunar landscape. If I thought we were on Mars yesterday in
Tenerife…this landscape would certainly qualify more.
The called this route, appropriately enough, the
"Lunar Route" and kids, it was freaking amazing. It went deep inside
the heart of the national park and really was so well created and set up to see
the landscape up close and personal.
Landing back from Mars we then headed to the vineyard
region. Lanzarote has no water and they get about 20 days of rain a year. So,
as you can imagine, growing crops of any sort is almost impossible. So through trial and error they discovered
that the volcanic soil would suck the moisture out of the winds that blew
through. So they grow the grapes in deep holes surrounded by a semicircular
volcanic stone wall that protest the delicate vines from the winds.
The wine region is called La Geria where the
famous Malvasia grape is grown and cultivated into a wine. We stopped to taste the wine and naturally I
had to buy a couple of bottles. It has a nice mineral taste and was pretty darn
good.
Then we went to lunch in Mancha Blanca. It was a buffet style lunch that offered
fish, veggies, paella, potatoes (one of the few crops that they grow here) and
a few other things. It was different, and tasty. The restaurant was called Los
Dolores because the patron saint of Lanzarote is Dolores - I have no idea, I'm
not Catholic.
After that it was off to the Mirador del Rio
viewpoint. Cesar Manrique built this
viewpoint into the cliff. From it you can see the "little"
islands: La Graciosa, Montana Clara and
Alegranza. The view was amazing. And the "river" wasn't a river but
more of the ocean between Lanzarote and La Graciosa.
If you know anything about volcanoes, or have
ever been to the Big Island of Hawaii, you know about lava tubes. The largest lava tube is called Jameos del
Aqua. The lava tube was also transformed by Cesar Manrique into a beautiful
paradise. It has a small pond of sea water in it and these lovely little white
crabs (that are apparently blind and only found here) dotting the bottom of the
lagoon - it looked like a starry night.
From there we headed back to the ship. It was a
fantastic day full of landscapes that were both beautiful and rugged.
Back on the boat and we had reservations for
Tappenyaki tonight. Craziest night ever. We had a ditch lady on one side of the
table who lost her wine ticket and was freaking out. Then a family of 5 from
Israel showed up 30 minutes late - and had only made reservations for 4. And
lastly an extra couple showed up and it turned out one of the couples at our
table had made reservations for 8pm and not 5. Janet and I just sat back and drank
our yummy Japanese Martini and watched the crazy going on around us.
Tomorrow is a sea day and we both feel like we
need it. Three stops in a row and we're pooped.
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